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This former war zone, now a UN protectorate, is slowly becoming normal again. Bombed out buildings are being replaced, new houses and tank stations are springing up all over the place and nightlife is active. But this being the Balkan, normal means of course lots of politics as well and the usual associated nationalistic propaganda, threats and riots. The UN, KFOR and other
Shell of a building bombed by the United States.
international organizations are everywhere, checking cars and guarding churches. Bill Clinton is a hero, as he helped drive out the Serbs who were occupying Kosovo. Now of course Kosovars want more. First an independent Kosovo, than a greater Kosovo and probably they would like world domination as well. Co-existence is not a word that was invented here. Still there is a bit of hope, as it looks like most people are more interested in the outside world than in the traditional Kosovo society, as is evidenced by the ubiquitous satellite dish and the appearance of a few women in nightlife and business. Unfortunately most intelligent people just move abroad in pursuit of better economic opportunities and so it will take a long time before this place will get significantly better.

A memorial for a fallen freedom fighter.
Welcome to the Bill Clinton Boulevard in Pristina.
Even the five stars on top of hotel Pristina make this place not much better than a dump.

Visiting the capital Pristina is easy. The roads are better than expected, the wait at the border is short and there are plenty of restaurants and hotels serving the international community. Just watch out not to get into a fight with a local. Even in a bar, there will be plenty of people carrying arms, and the local gangsters are famous in the region for their brutality and human trafficking. And make sure to take a couple of decent boots. The streets have not been sweeped in years and so dust and mud is everywhere.

Eric on Clinton Blvd.
One of the few Orthodox churches still standing because of around the clock UN protection.
The UN is policing everywhere