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We started our South-American trip in Ecuador. I was slightly apprehensive about going to South-America, as on my previous trip a few years ago I had been mugged and shot at in Brazil. Ecuador turned out to be reasonably safe and during the day we walked around the town rather comfortably. My friends Otto and Maris arrived a day after us and when we all had recovered from jetleg we set out for the Galapagos Islands. The
A Giant Galapagos Turtle
group Galapagos are an island group about 1500 kilometers out in the Pacific Ocean and due to its extreme isolation has seen relatively few outside influences. And because of its unique geography over the last couple of million years species have developed seperately from the mainland. Darwin, the founder of the evolution theory, visited the Galapagos islands as part of his research.
The only way to tour around the Galapagos is by boat and we were lucky enough to find a last-minute deal on the Yolita, which with 12 passengers and five crew is one of the smaller boats. For a week we went from island to island, landing at most of them to observe the wildlife. And so we got to see the giant turtles, flamingos, sharks, many different kind of birds like the albatros and the blue footed booby, and sea lions, sea lions and more sea lions.
One of the great things about the Galapagos is that almost all of it is protected area, and all tourists are accompanied by a well-educated guide. In this way the human impact on the wildlife is minimal and the animals can be easily observed behaving in their natural way. It is quite a difference experience from visiting a zoo. Our guide was quite a character, and besides telling us a lot of details about the Galapagos he was also a great storyteller. Not always politically correct, his stories were a good laugh and is was easy to see he was quite a charmer. Of course life on board a small boat on the open sea takes a bit getting used to and most of us spend the first few days in different stages of seasickness. The first night back on land I was still rocking back and forth so much I had to hold on to walls trying not to fall over. And with the scarce amount of water available you can only take a two minutes shower at the end of the day and so within a few days the level of personal hygiene is not what it should be. But the food was excellent, most other passengers turned out to be really great people and every day brought a new discovery of how beautiful nature can be.
Quito, the capital of Ecuador
Maris and Otto, our travel partners for six weeks
To visit the Galapagos we booked a trip with the Yolita. To book the Yolita do not use the expensive website, but compare a few prices at the travel agencies in Quito. Last minute bookings are generally possible and a lot cheaper.

In Quito we stayed at the L'auberge Inn, a decent guesthouse with an attached restaurant. Recommended.