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While hanging out in Antigua, Guatemala, Sam and I thought it would be nice to spend a couple of days in a little less visited place. El Salvador, right next door to Guatemala is exactly such a place. We took Jimena with us and decided to go first to the Monte Cristo cloud forest, close to the small city of Metapan in the Northwest of El Salvador. It is a tropical rainforest on the top of a
Volcán Izalco
mountain. The guidebook warned that it is a bit out of the way, and therefore difficult to reach. what it did not say is, that even after a ride on the back of a
Lago de Coatepeque
four wheel drive up the mountain on what looks like a road, the park officials donot let foreigners go into the forest, unless they come with their 'own' vehicle. And there is only one person willing to drive you there privately and he is right down in Metapán , standing with his car at the beginning of the road and charging about $40 a person for this ride. This about 100 times more than what locals pay to get there. For some reason, most likely related to local mafia activity, there is no one else willing to offer a ride, we really tried. There are no tourist agencies and surprise, no sign of tourists whatsoever in what is supposed to be El Salvadors major tourist attraction. Instead, we found out after a walk through the town, that we ourselves were
becoming quite an attraction as some of the local teenagers would go wherever we went. We did find an excellent 'pupuseria', where we got some find local food and a again a few stares.

The view from the hotel room. Every book about El Salvador has this picture
Lago de Coatepeque

The next day confirmed that nobody in El Salvador even understands the concept of tourism. We went to a local travel agency and reserved a room in Hotel Montaña , a hotel on top of a mountain overlooking a vulcano. The phone number was outdated, but after about 10 calls our helpful travel agent found the number and made the reservation. We found someone willing to drive the two hours it takes to get there, but when we arrived we were told the hotel was closed for already 5 years! The reservation turned out to be for a hotel with the same name on the other side of the country. There was no other hotel in the area and we had really been looking forward to staying in this beautifull place. The guards saw
A small waterfall in MonteChristo
Jimena
our dilemma and immediately offered to clean up a room for us, as long as we would pay the normal rate. We were the first guests in three months in this big place. All we needed now was Jack Nicholson for a sequel to the movie 'The Shining'. For dinner we found someone to make us a few 'pupusas' and luckily we had brought our own supply of alcohol. The roomkeys were not available, so every time we wanted to go in, one of the guards had to come with the masterkey. And every time we used the electrical shower the power would go off in the while complex. In it's heyday this must have been one of the best hotels in the county. Certainly still a very interesting place.
From MonteChristo you can see about half of the country